I bought the SUPER STREET DAMPER 1 year ago. I mainly just drive to work, when should I get an Overhaul done?
Usually an Overhaul is done after 2-3 years (approximately 3-40,000km). For those who drive a lot, aim for roughly 1 year. Basically it’s done when oil gets in to the piston rod, when the damper becomes softer than usual, after an accident etc. Please visually inspect it from time to time. If your damper is become black from burning or has oil stuck to it, it is about time to get an overhaul. * If you have dust boots, please fold them back when inspecting.
Some hints to prolong the life of your shock absorber, “it is not recommenced to drive too fast when the shock absorber is still cold”, “clean the shock absorbers periodically”, “inspect all the installation points periodically”. When using brand new parts or after an overhaul, it is recommended to drive mildly to ‘break-in’ the parts. During the ‘breaking-in’ period (between 300 – 500km) please try to avoid driving over rough surfaces. * Overhaul period may differ due to the places you drive, the way you drive, and maintenance condition.
I am using the TYPE FLEX DAMPER. I mainly drive on circuits, and I feel that it’s becoming soft. What kind of revalving should I request?
Please set the spring rate, when you want to mainly use it for circuits. After that, adjust the damping force accordingly to the conditions. First, drive the car as it is, and adjust the damping force, if you feel you are not receiving enough force. When requesting revalving, please note down as much information about the conditions as possible. “ What kg spring you use, what kind of movements happens when…” etc. A good example would be like “I drive a EG6 and use springs that are 4k more than the OE, at XXXX circuit. The car starts rolling, won’t stop vibrating and feels very light in high speed corners. The timing doesn’t match when counter steering during a S corner, so I want to make the settings harder” (when experiencing something like this, it is recommended to increase the rebound damping force.) But remember your personal preferences for how hard the damper is or the way you like to drive is very important, so please tell us what you would like to happen.
I am using the SUPER STREET DAMPER and when I increased the spring rate, the ride height won’t drop as much anymore. If I don’t want to use a shorter spring, is there any other way to reduce the damper stroke?
Technically it is possible to reduce the damper stroke itself is possible to do. But, it is dangerous to use short springs without proper preparation. Please make sure to confirm that there is sufficient spring stroke. Please aim to have the ride height at 1G with the spring compression stroke being more than the shock absorber compression stroke. Or, have 2.5 times the vehicle weight with springs, lower than the weight with intended spring’s installed. The vehicle weight with springs is calculated by 1 wheel load (kg) – spring lower weight (kg) × lever ratio, and the spring’s installed weight is calculated by spring rate (kgf/mm) × spring stroke (mm).
Another method is to remove the helper spring and undertake the short stroke machining process. For this, the vehicle ride height will only drop by the helper spring length × lever ratio length. Whichever method you choose, the rebound stroke will decrease, and therefore the inner tire traction during cornering and road surface compliance over rough surfaces will also decrease. Instead of worrying about the ride height too much, please take into consideration the priorities of the product’s ability as well
Is it possible to have short case machining done for the SUPER STREET DAMPER?
Technically, it is possible, but basically not acceptable such requests. This is because, as a result of short case machining, the damper will stroke more than required and in turn the tire or arm etc. will come in contact with the vehicle’s body before completing the shock absorber’s stroke. No matter how short you machine the case or how much bump stroke you secure, it has no meaning, and will only decrease the case’s capacity. The case length for HA/ HR dampers and the position of the ADJ tube, using basic set springs, are designed, with the arm without the bump rubber etc. to be as close as possible to the vehicle’s body without touching it. Usually the tire will come in contact with the body before the arm does, but for some vehicle models, it happens simultaneously. If the appropriate size measurements and weight calculations are not done before performing short case machining, the arm and the vehicle’s body will come in contact during cornering, resulting in a sudden movement or worse, a possibility of an accident.
I bought the TYPE FLEX DAMPER (kit w/o upper mount) for my BNR32, and I installed it myself, but the damping force adjustment dial won’t turn more than 10 clicks. I didn’t use a torque wrench, but I followed the user’s manual and I am sure that I did exactly as what was written when I tightened the dial. Can I make a claim?
First, please, make sure if it is possible, then please send the part to the company. All damping force adjustment dials have undergone thorough checks during assembly, and the only reason possible for this situation is that the shaft top nut was tightened too much. (Too much torque was exhibited)
Especially for the Nissan multi-link system, the pressure required to tighten the dial is very low, furthermore a rubber bush is used so the tightening sensation is very weak and it is common to apply more than the required pressure. Other makers such as Honda and Mazda use a M10 size nut, which has a tendency to weaken within the upper adjustment part, and tightening pressure is also easily over applied, resulting in the shaft top deforming. At worst, for these situations, the piston rod may need to be replaced. Please take care of both over applying and under applying tightening pressure.
Can I bring my car in for an overhaul?
Unfortunately the company does not have the facilities to disassemble your car, so TEIN does not accept any requests from customers who wish to bring in their vehicle. Please remove the shock absorber(s) at your local garage, dealer or by yourself and then send the part(s) to the company. Please understand that TEIN is always making an effort to finish all overhaul work as soon as possible.
How long does an overhaul usually take?
After TEIN receives the shock absorber, the company completes an inspection and contact the customer. After that date, they usually require 2 weeks to perform the overhaul. (This does not include the 2 weeks after summer/ winter vacation, golden week, and any other long consecutive holidays.)
I lost my user’s manual, so I don’t have my Overhaul/ Revalving Request form. What should I do?
TEIN has copies on the company's homepage. Please look for “User’s Manual” and you can make a selection by vehicle make/ model and item. Please print and use the form from the relevant manual.
I want to revalve my car, but I don’t know what the standard damping force level is.
Please read the damping force characteristic chart found in the User’s Manual. For those who can not find their particular vehicle in the User’s Manual, please contact TEIN directly.
I purchased a brand new TYPE FLEX DAMPER with pillow upper mount. It was the first time I installed a shock absorber by myself, but when I am driving, I hear a clattering noise. Did I buy a faulty product?
If it’s your first time to install a shock absorber, then potentially the problem lies in the installation process. First, please reconfirm with your User’s Manual, that all the parts were assembled in the correct order and direction. Next, once you have confirmed that all the parts were assembled correctly, please refer to the User’s Manual and use the torque wrench to make sure that enough tightening pressure was applied. (If you do not own a torque wrench, please ask for advice from your local garage.) Finally, please reconfirm that the vehicle make/ model matches with the installation method and product number.
I purchased a brand new TYPE FLEX DAMPER with pillow upper mount. There were no problems installing the shock absorber, but I can hear clattering and tapping sounds.
For shock absorbers with pillow ball upper mounts, it is common to hear noises from within the shock absorber itself. These can be heard especially in cars (such as TOYOTA ARISTO, SOARER, MARK II etc.), which are very quiet in standard form. Also, due to the twin tube structure, you may hear a tapping sound when the oil and gas mix, possibly during transport, and aeration occurs. For the mono tube structure, the oil and gas are in the same chamber, so this sound is inevitable. (* aeration, cavitation) When oil and gas mix and aeration occurs, there is an instant loss of damping force, the piston within the cylinder plays, and this produces the tapping sound.
(Aeration, simply put, is when bubbles forming in the oil making it difficult to produce sufficient damping force. If this happens, please release the air.) If you are using OE mounts and there is large sound, and you can even feel the sound’s vibration, then please contact TEIN because a disassembly inspection may be necessary.
I think aeration is occurring in my shock absorber and I hear a tapping sound. How do I release the air?
With twin tube structures, oil and gas can mix to cause aeration. If this happens, place the shock absorber in an upright position, and slowly move the piston rod to full stroke 2 to 3 times, to release the air. However, for old types (TYPE – H etc.), the rod length is shorter than the interior of the case, so never move the rod more than the stroke length. The gas in the shock absorber is harmless and odorless, but be careful not to get any oil or other dirt into your eyes etc. This is not claimable and overhaul costs will apply.
I bought a old used TYPE-H damper and after installing it, I can hear a discomforting noise.
Regarding purchasing old used products, unless it is in exceptional condition, TEIN recommends getting it overhauled first. Products that have been used for a long period of time, the inner components are usually worn out, for example an oil seal damage leads to oil leaks and deterioration of the whole product. If used in that condition, it usually leads to structural damage. If an overhauled is performed, the product can be used like brand new, so TEIN recommends sending in your overhaul request as soon as possible.
I purchased a set of S.TECH springs and after installation, I can hear noises which sound like metal rubbing against each other. Is it something I should be worried about?
If using S.TECH’s with unequal pitch (variable rate), it is common to hear such noises because of the design settings (at 1G). S.TECH’s with unequal pitch are commonly used because they are designed to lower the ride height fully expanded (so it will be compatible to OE dampers). Once installed, it is not possible to control the spring, but if it was installed properly, there is nothing to be worried about.
I installed my part a while ago, but recently I started hearing some clanging noises.
There seems to be some slack built up within the main component. TEIN recommends that you make sure all the parts are tightened properly or consult the store where you purchased/installed the part.
I installed the SUPER STREET DAMPER to my car, and when I drive over rough surfaces, I can hear squeaking noises from the rear. Is it a defect?
First, turn the damping force adjustable click, 5 or 6 clicks, then drive. If there is a change in volume or sound quality, then the noise is just the shock absorber working.
For SUPER STREET DAMPERs and other damping force adjustable shock absorbers, the damping force is adjusted by regulating the oil flow within the piston rod interior. There is a by-pass that regulates the oil flow called the orifice. If too much oil flows through this by-pass, a ‘hissing’ sound can sometimes be heard.
Please do not worry, because these sounds are not because the product is defective in anyway.
I installed BASIC WAGON to my car, but while I drive, I can hear squeaking and/ or rattling noises. Was it not properly installed?
Do not worry, because this does not sound like a product defect. Rubber bushes are used in various parts of a vehicle’s suspension, such as in the lower installation points, the upper/lower arm installation points etc. When these bushes become twisted, sounds may be heard while driving. For symptoms such as this, loosen all the bolts with the vehicle at 1G (when the vehicle is stationary on a flat surface) for all the suspension parts (moving parts such as the arm etc). Lightly rock the vehicle a few times, then re-tightening all the bolts. This should straighten the rubber bushes back to normal.
If the rubber bushes have twisted, the ride height may be slightly higher compared to the original ride height. (The installation screws were originally tightened with the suspension fully rebounded, so the bushes tend to twist in the suspension’s rebound direction.)
Generally speaking, when installing TEIN's product, the arm maybe at a lower ride height than normal or set at a difficult angle. At this point, for the installed bushes, there is an extremely large amount of pre-load between the outside and inside of the collar. It is necessary to remove this pre-load. On the other hand, in motorsport, this pre-load is taken advantage of by reducing the suspension over 1G, then re-tightening to set the car up even the slightest bit lower.
It is my first time adjusting the ride height. What ride height position should I set my car at?
If you are using standard springs, it is not recommended to lower the ride height very much. When lowering, stay within 30mm to 40mm. If you lower too much, the wheel arch and tires may hit. Front and rear balance should be the same as OE or 5 to 10mm lower in the front. For cars that already have a low ride height (Z32, FD3S etc.), if you lower by 10mm to 20mm will be sufficient. For any car, make repeated adjustments over time to find the optimal ride height for you.
If I mainly want to drive at the circuit, how should I set the spring rate and ride height?
You should increase the spring rate from the standard rate. It will also depend on the tires you use and the course you drive on. If you are using tires with good grip, the faster you go the centrifugal force will move and the amount of roll will increase. (If you increase the spring rate, the ride height will also increase, so please lower the lower seat.) When driving at the circuit, it is ok to lower the car until the tires nearly touch, but if you drive to the circuit, please abide by your local regulations. It is good to make adjustments to the front and rear balance by repeatedly driving and then adjusting by 5mm increments.
I wanted to lower the ride height by 30mm so I lowered the lower seat by 30mm. But the actual ride height dropped by 45mm. Why?
This is because of the lever ratio. The lever ratio is the stroke ratio between the shock absorber and the tire. Shock absorber – tire ratio is 1:1.5. For double wishbone types, the lever ratio is 1.2 – 1.7. For strut types, 1.0. For multi-link types, approximately 1.0 – 1.1.
Why is the front spring rate for the Mark II and Supra set so high, between 12k-18k?
This is also because of the lever ratio. The Toyota front double wishbone type has a lever ratio of about 1.6. If it were a strut type, the spring rate would only be about 5k to 7k. For the rear, the ratio is about 1.2. Other manufactures like Honda, Mazda also have models with high spring rates.
I purchased the SUPER STREET DAMPER and I intend to go to the circuit, so I increased the spring rate by 4k. I lowered the seat to the lowest position, but the ride height doesn’t drop very much. Why?
This is just because of physics. The spring rate and ride height depends on the vehicle’s weight. For example, if you have a lever ratio: 1.5, load at spring: 300kg and use 10k springs or 6k springs. The difference in ride height will be 30mm. Even if the lever ratio was 1.0, the difference will be 20mm. And of course, you need to adjust the seat position by the difference (e.g. 20mm). When dropping the ride height with high spring rates, you should change to shorter springs, or remove the helper springs. However, doing this will allow the springs to play and restrict use on public roads. (Short stroke is ok.)
I lowered my car very low, but the ride comfort is bad. What can I do to improve the comfort level?
It depends on the product that you use, but lower the ride height, less stroke can be secured, thus depreciating ride comfort. If you raise the ride height by 5mm to 10mm, you should be able to secure enough stroke and improve ride comfort. So please try.
I want to secure more stroke by cutting the bump rubber. How much should I cut?
If you compress the bump rubber, attached to the shock absorber, it will approximately be about 15mm. This compressed height is set at the minimum possible height, so if you tamper with the bump rubber, then the tire may hit the wheel arch, or the drive shaft may even hit the body.
When undertaking such process, the customer is fully responsible. Please take all precautionary measures, and make small changes at a time.
I often hear the ride comfort worsens as you lower the ride height, but if I raise the ride height, does it affect the ride comfort?
If you raise the lower seat lock to the highest possible position, the main spring will shrink, worsening the compliance with the road surface and ride comfort. For this reason, TEIN offers the maximum adjustable seat lock height for all threading type ride height adjustable shock absorbers.
I have HIGH.TECH springs on my car, but the ride height is not as low as I thought. Is the product defective?
There are some cases when the bushes get twisted during installation and the ride height becomes set a little higher. (When the suspension is fully rebounded, the screws on the installed part become loosened. The bushes become twisted towards the suspension’s rebound direction.) Rubber bushes are used in various parts of a vehicle’s suspension, such as in the lower installation points, the upper/lower arm installation points etc. When these bushes become twisted, it may make it difficult to lower the vehicle height. For all the suspension parts (moving parts such as the arm etc), loosen the installation bolts with the vehicle at 1G (when the vehicle is stationary on a flat surface). Lightly rock the vehicle a few times, then re-tighten all the bolts. This should straighten the bushes and return the ride height to its original position. If you drive when the bushes are twisted, you may hear some unusual squeaking sounds. Generally speaking, when installing TEIN's product, the arm maybe at a lower ride height than normal or set at a difficult angle. At this point, for the installed bushes, there is an extremely large amount of pre-load between outside and inside of the collar. It is necessary to remove this pre-load. On the other hand, in motorsport, this pre-load is taken advantage of by reducing the suspension over 1G, then re-tightening to set the car up even the slightest bit lower.
When looking at springs, e.g. S.TECH, spring rates are written like the following. Does this mean that the spring rate can be chosen within the range?
This is what is called a “variable rate” and does not mean you can select the rate. The range shows the rate the spring may change while driving. It has the same effect as if you lined up the different rated springs all together. Variable springs are used for lowering the ride height and to prevent play. 1 variable spring contains the different rated springs. The spring rate range is quite large for most vehicles because the vehicle is compressed more, by the amount the helper spring would have filled.